Citizen Cane

Just as early spring is when the maple trees are tapped up north, down in southern Louisiana, fall means sugar cane season, when the endless acres of cane are cut, stripped, and boiled down in open kettles to produce the region’s beloved sticky cane syrup. Steen’s Cane Syrup, in its iconic yellow cans, is a staple in every New Orleans pantry; it’s been produced by the Steen family in Abbeville, Louisiana for nearly 100 years.

One of David Guas’ favorite uses for cane syrup (besides being poured generously over pancakes) is in Gâteau de Sirop. Cane syrup is a close-cousin to molasses, and this cake is basically a gingerbread, distinguished by fresh grated ginger and a splash of Crystal Hot Sauce for extra punch. Served warm with vanilla ice cream and swimming in plenty of extra syrup, it was a holiday staple in the Guas house when he was growing up in New Orleans – and still is in his own house here in northern Virginia.

The recipe is featured in DamGoodSweet: Desserts to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth, New Orleans Style, David’s first cookbook. An advance copy just arrived here in the office, and it looks good enough to eat – with syrup on top.