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Robert Wiedmaier Rocks Revel

2012-01-24T15:35:00.000-05:00

Flemish flair and fare are heading to the coast...the East Coast, that is! Chefs Robert Wiedmaier and Brian McBride are taking a gamble and bringing their popular Mussel Bar brand to the newest gem in Atlantic City: Revel. Belgian Boardwalk Empire, anyone?

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2012-01-11T16:41:00.000-05:00

Tuesday was my BIG television debut..and my last! I had to do it though to support the Black & Gold for the Super Bowl. So check it out for my one and only on-screen appearance on NBC4 with Barbara Harrison! WHO DAT!

How Sweet It Is!

2011-10-24T13:42:00.000-04:00

Chef David Guas of Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar & Eatery stopped by the National Honey Board to share his favorite back to school lunches, perfect for any brown bag (no matter how old you are!)

Women of Washington

2011-10-13T13:23:00.001-04:00

The Jefferson, Washington, D.C. recently hosted the ladies of CBS News as they did a photo shoot for CBS Watch! Magazine's January/February 2012 issue. Here's a peek at Norah O'Donnell, Chief White House Correspondent; Sharyl Attkisson, Investigative Correspondent; Jan Crawford, Political and Chief Legal Correspondent; and Nancy Cordes, Congressional Correspondent.

TenPenh Bids a Fond Farewell.

2011-07-05T12:00:00.000-04:00

TenPenh Bids a Fond Farewell

TenPenh’s landmark Asian-inspired restaurant closing June 30, 2011

Being unable to finalize a mutually beneficial agreement between the partners of TenPenh Restaurant [Jeff Tunks, Gus DiMillo, David Wizenberg] and the lessor, an amicable resolution has been reached whereby; the jewel-colored silk-upholstered dining room of TenPenh closes its doors at the end of this month. It will leave behind a legacy of sophisticated Asian-inspired cuisine and glittering memories – of delectable lunches, exotic dinner feasts, and festive suckling pig roasts right there on Pennsylvania Avenue just blocks from The White House.

Eleven years ago, following an intensive research trip to Asia, we brought authentic flavors and flair to our Asian inspired establishment. The interior made its mark with brilliant color, silk lanterns, antique Asian statuary, and servers in raw silk jackets. TenPenh’s menu introduced the Washington area to the joys of whole fish, taking the fear out of that dramatic presentation. It also gave a home to executive chef Jeff Tunks’ Chinese Style Smoked Lobster, which became its signature dish. During the tenure of Tunks’ longtime Philippine-born chef de cuisine, Washington learned to embrace upscale Philippine cuisine.

Praised in the press from Bon Appétit to The New York Times [and with a coveted listing in the late great Gourmet Magazine’s Guide to America’s Best Restaurants under its glamorous belt] Not to mention, Esquire Magazine gave it the notable honor of being one of only twenty “Best New Restaurants 2000.” TenPenh’s high style and distinctive cuisine always attracted luminaries. The kitchen was honored by visiting chefs Cristeta Comerford [of The White House] and America’s master of Asian cooking, Susanna Foo. Its dining room was graced by the likes of Ruth Bader Ginsberg and Dr. Ruth, Barack Obama and John McCain, U2 and John Travolta.

Although much discussion is whirling around about a possible relocation, we would like to simply focus our energy and time on our independent ongoing ventures and the two new independent endeavors poised to open on Washington Circle this August.

Gus, Jeff and David are indebted and thankful to their loyal supporters, distinguished press, friends and family for their continued commitment to TenPenh. And most importantly, they are sincerely grateful to their dedicated staff for all their efforts and hard work over the past 11 years.

“A fond farewell for now! Thank you for the memories,” says Gus, Jeff and David.

Happy 4th of July

2011-07-05T10:31:00.000-04:00

Hope everyone had a Happy 4th of July! There's nothing like spending it with family!

My nephew, Max, and sons, Spencer and Kemp.

Mixing it Up with Mixtress Gina Chersevani of PS7's at the 2011 RAMMY's!

2011-06-29T15:22:00.002-04:00

Step out on the town with Mixtress Gina Chersevani and the DC Dining Scene at this year's RAMMY Awards!

The "Promised Land"

2011-06-27T15:49:00.002-04:00

It has been a long time since I visited my blog and almost eight years since I last stepped foot in the “promised land” of wine & great food. I finally made it back to Napa, California this past week for a little bit of work—and lucky enough for me—a little bit of play!

My first stop was San Francisco, where I made a quick visit to good friend, Randy Lewis’ newest Restaurant, Criolla Kitchen. I took a looksie around and it gave me a feeling of being home in New Orleans. Bright orange accents enhance the raw and simple lines of the décor. Vibrant, large photos of memorable New Orleans visuals grace the walls, like Mardi Gras indians or jazz musicians. Unfortunately Randy wasn’t there for us to catch up as he was out of town for the day. Drag, no lunch as it was only 10:30 AM! But I was glad to see the restaurant for myself. The place serves up everything with a traditional Louisiana flare—New Orleans and Southern cuisine mixed with Northern California ingredients for the purest results.

I cannot pass up the noon hour without thinking lunch. I had already made contact with pastry chef Emily Luchetti to visit Waterbar on the waterfront, where I slurped down two dozen California oysters and the cleanser was a beautiful glass of Rosé from the Sonoma region. Briny goodness topped with just a squirt of lemon. Emily joined me for some desserts. Every single one I sampled. And who has a sweet tooth? I do and usually control it, but not with a pastry chef sitting right there. You didn’t have to twist my arm! Oh my mouth was salivating over the Lemon Roulade as it had the citrus twang you want so your tastebuds start dancing. The Cherry Pie came neck-in-neck with getting my sweet tooth rockin’ with just the perfect topping of Almond Ice Cream.

And guess what? It was Emily’s birthday! Now that made my lunch even more of a treat!

Then I was off to Napa, where I was fortunate enough to visit the Culinary Institute of America for the very first time. David (chef David Guas of Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar & Eatery) has been going there for years as a presenter for several lectures and events, and I was so glad to be able see it for myself finally! I had a special moment thinking of Michael Batterberry, my dear friend who passed away and I felt his presence there the entire time. He gave so much to the culinary world and I was one of the fortunate ones to be a part of his world. While at the CIA I met with the wonderfully “sweet” folks at the National Honey Board, there for “Honey Summit 2011: Inspiration, Ideation, Innovation” with a number of chefs to discuss the importance of preserving the honey bee and using honey in a variety of cooking, from savory to sweet!

Now, you all know how important work is to me, but being back in Napa I couldn’t help myself but play a little as well! As the conversation on honey continued at the CIA, I thought I would take a personal break and see what I could squeeze out of Napa for the day. Though many of my familiar haunts were still around, I decided to make it a day of new experiences see what new restaurants Napa had to offer! Top of my list was Farmstead Restaurant, one of the coolest restaurants I have visited in quite some time. There I met Executive Sous Chef, Michael Markoff, who I started talking about New Orleans with happily! Though Michael is not from New Orleans, Executive Chef Sheamus Feeley had spent some time working in New Orleans and we found plenty to talk about between bites of Caramelized Beets, Local Goat Cheese, and Brick Cooked Chicken.

And finally, with only a half day left in the trip, I realized I had almost forgotten the most important part of any Napa excursion: the wine! I high-tailed it right away to the beautiful Merryvale Vineyards on Highway 29, where I tasted spicy, full-bodied Petite Syrahs. Already proven lucky twice that day with my New Orleans connections, I took a leap of faith and mentioned to my server my roots in Louisiana. Well, he did ask where I was born, because I have an accent. Wouldn’t you know it, his best friend not only lives in New Orleans, but is the one of the head police officers! My girls in the office always tease me, but I can find a New Orleans connection no matter where I go! As he poured me tastings of some of the best wine I have ever had, we talked about Mardi Gras and the Bacchus parade, until it came time for the Profile wine of the vineyard. Knowing full well the hefty price tag of such a bottle, I respectfully declined a taste and was ready to head out with my purchases, when my server quietly poured a glass and said “it must be your lucky day!” Only a true New Orleans gal can get away with that!

Here are a few of my artsy fartsy shots of some vineyards.

Down and Dirty this Memorial Day Weekend

2011-05-26T17:29:00.001-04:00

Dig into spicy, boiled mudbugs over Memorial Day Weekend

at Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar & Eatery in Arlington, Virginia.

Mardi Gras 2011 in New Orleans!

2011-03-31T10:24:00.000-04:00

This year, the boys and I were able to travel down to New Orleans to enjoy some of the Mardi Gras festivities with their grandfather, my father-in-law. We also got to visit with my god-children - Mignon, Desiree, and Scarlett. Kem was having a great time surrounded by Southern belles!

Mariano - or Abuello as the boys call him.

Kemp with Abuello.

Spencer is ready for the parade!

Rockin' the Bayou Bakery shirt down in New Orleans - spreading the word!

In the parade stands!

Spencer and Abuello in the stands.

Kemp and his Southern belles.

The Today Show Gets a Taste of New Orleans!

2011-03-16T11:40:00.001-04:00

Who says Mardi Gras is only celebrated on Fat Tuesday? It is fun to remember the good times enjoyed in New Orleans everyday! When the producers of The Today Show reached out to me looking for a New Orleans chef ready to take on the task of cooking for Kathie Lee Gifford and Hoda Kotb on Fat Tuesday, I knew the perfect gal for the job...Chef Haley Bittermann! As the Corporate Executive Chef, Haley oversees all food and beverage operations for the Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group, consisting of Ralph's on the Park, Red Fish Grill, and Jazz Kitchen in California. Cafe b and Heritage Grill will be the newest restaurants to join the family this spring.

She certainly showed the ladies of The Today Show a good time, bringing with her New Orleans Style BBQ Shrimp, Creole Jambalaya, Double Chocolate Bread Pudding, and of course, a classic King Cake. And no Fat Tuesday would be complete without some Abita Beer and a Hurricane!

Sunday at Bayou Bakery Coffee Bar & Eatery!

2011-03-14T14:18:00.000-04:00

Had a great lazy Sunday at Bayou Bakery Coffee Bar & Eatery with Geraldine Eisendrath and Mollie Chen - tasting just about everything from Muff-a-lottas to Pimento Cheese with Triscuits, Breakfast Biscuits, and Porkorn!

We Need Your Vote for David Guas

2011-02-17T11:17:00.000-05:00

We need your vote for Chef David Guas, of Bayou Bakery in Arlington, Virginia, in Food&Wine's "The People's Best New Chef" competition for the Mid-Atlantic. Please take a minute to click on the link below and vote for David Guas - the only chef in Virginia - for "The People's Best New Chef."

Livin' High on the Hog: Chef David Guas at Blackberry Farm with Southern Foodways Alliance

2011-01-19T18:45:00.002-05:00

Seeing Stars, Guitars and Pinot Noirs

2010-12-13T11:05:00.001-05:00

CMT recently honored their top five artists of the year and to help them celebrate in style they turned to James Beard Award winning chefs, RJ Cooper, John Currence and Michael Schwartz. Here's a little peak at the event!

A Starry Night with Chefs

2010-10-27T11:53:00.006-04:00

Honoring the Rising Stars of DC’s Culinary Scene

Mary

Last night we celebrated the rising culinary mavens of the DC/VA/MD area at the 2010 DC Rising StarChefs Gala, and an event it was! Held on the rooftop of Charlie Palmer Steak, guests were treated with almost-perfect weather (the winds clearly wanted in on the celebration), a beautiful view of the capital’s best, a special surprise guest, and of course, copious amounts of wine, cocktails, and food.

Snapshots of the panoramic view

Presented by the honorees themselves, the dishes and drinks showcased the exact talent that awarded them the prestigious accolade. From Bryan Voltaggio’s New Zealand King Salmon, Everything Bagel Crumbs, Pickled Mustard Seeds, Lemon Pudding, Chives, and Red Onion to Gina Chersevani’s Bourbon, Meyer-Lemon Limoncello, and sour cherry cocktail, to Jason Alley’s Braised Australian Beef Cheeks, Juniper, Ginger Beer, Stone Ground Grits, and Arugula, this was definitely the event to attend with an empty stomach and thirsty palate.

Bryan Voltaggio's table was one of the many who suffered power outages caused by the wind. Although their only source of light was a small LED light and my camera flash, they still managed to execute one of my favorite dishes of the night.

Amidst the mingling, tasting, and sipping, I spotted a familiar face in the crowd. An old friend? No. A former acquaintance? Not quite. Then it hit me. It was Grant Achantz, chef/owner of the Alinea in Chicago. Sure enough, the next thing I know, he’s on stage presenting his protégé, John Shields, with the Rising StarChefs award. In true fan form, I tracked him immediately afterwards for a photo op.

Chef Grant and me

One of these days, I will plan a trip to Chicago to dine at his internationally-acclaimed restaurant. My bucket list just got one line longer.

All in all, the night was a successful array of flavors, fun and excitement to celebrate the next generation of star chefs, sommeliers, and mixologists who, under the tutelage of their nationally renowned mentors, have helped put DC on the culinary map. Congratulations to all the winners!

Washington DC Area's Revue Gala Tasting Menu

WASHINGTON, DC CHEFS

Rubén García, minibar by josé andrés and ThinkFoodGroup
Cotton Candy Eel

***

Benjamin Lambert, Restaurant Nora
Hawaiian Hearts of Palm Salad, Thai Basil, Cucumber, Mango, Coriander Berries, Basil Seeds, Heirloom Tomato Water, and Hearts of Palm Sorbet

***

Nick Stefanelli, Bibiana
Hay Smoked Veal Sweetbreads, Jerusalem Artichokes, and Black Truffle-Anchovy Dressing

***

David Varley, Bourbon Steak
Sustainable Shrimp, Shaved Green Papaya, Long Peppers, and Peanuts

***

Nobu Yamazaki, Sushi Taro
Alaskan King Crab Shabu Shabu

***

VIRGINIA CHEFS

Jason Alley, Comfort
Braised Australian Beef Cheeks, Juniper, Ginger Beer, Stone Ground Grits, and Arugula

***

Bertrand Chemel, 2941
Local Beets, Compressed Watermelon, Laughing Bird Shrimp, and Cherrywood Balsamic

***

Clayton Miller, Trummer's on Main
Chilled New Zealand Greenshell Mussels, Quinoa, Curry Mayo, and Fluffy Ocean

***

John Shields, Town House Restaurant
Australian Lamb, Cooked in Ash with Smoked Eggplant Purée, Miso, Bonito Dressing, and Black Garlic

***

MARYLAND CHEF

Bryan Voltaggio, VOLT
New Zealand King Salmon, Everything Bagel Crumbs, Pickled Mustard Seeds, Lemon Pudding, Chives, and Red Onion

***

COMMUNITY CHEF

Matt Hill, Charlie Palmer Steak (Washington, DC)
Prosciutto-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin, Cauliflower, and Preserved Cherries

***

SUSTAINABILITY CHEF

Isaiah Billington, Woodberry Kitchen (Maryland)
Summer Pudding

***

HOTEL CHEF

Dean Maupin, Formerly of The Clifton Inn (Virginia)
Duck Confit and Ricotta Gnocchi with Butternut Squash, Arugula, Cracklin's, and Grated Wisconsin SarVecchio Parmesan

***

VIP HOST CHEF

Aaron Tootill, Washington Marriott at Metro Center (Washington, DC)
Tuna Ceviche with Red Bell Pepper Sauce, Cilantro Sauce, Micro Peppercress, and Petrossian Osetra Caviar

***

PASTRY CHEFS

Chris Ford, Trummer's on Main (Virginia)
Chocolate Soup, Cocoa Nib Sherbet, Cinnamon Marshmallow, and Devil's Food Cake

***

Tiffany MacIsaac, Birch & Barley (Washington, DC)
Chocolate Peanut Butter Tart, Malted Milk Sorbet, and Whiskey Vanilla Shake

***

Karen Urie Shields, Town House Restaurant (Virginia)
Parsnip Candy, Coconut, Yeast Sponge, Banana, Maca Crumbs, and Lemongrass

***

MIXOLOGISTS

Gina Chersevani, PS 7's (Washington, DC)
- Beet-iful Apples with Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, Apple Juice, Red Beet Reduction, and Mint
- Mulberry Street: Woodford Bourbon, House-made Meyer Lemon Limoncello, and Sour Cherries

***

Stefan Trummer, Trummer's on Main (Virginia)
The Reefer: Rum, Fresh Mint, Virginia Honey, Angostura Bitters, Barboursville Brut, and Bouquet Garnis Steeped in Absinthe

***

SOMMELIERS

Greg Engert, Birch & Barley (Washington, DC)
Beer Pairings with chefs' dishes

***

Carlton McCoy, Sou'Wester (Washington, DC)
Wine Pairings with chefs' dishes

New Orleans Resurrects After the Storm

2010-09-09T08:50:00.000-04:00

From the cutting room floor: John Besh visits Ming Tsai's show

2010-08-13T16:29:00.002-04:00

DC Chefs Serve a 30-Foot Long Po' Boy at the White House!

2010-08-11T10:33:00.000-04:00

Some folks I know did something special at the White House on Monday!

For more videos and photographs, visit the Louisiana Seafood Promotion & Marketing Board.

Two New Orleans Natives Take on Tales...Armed with Cocktails!

2010-08-10T11:07:00.000-04:00

Making a Pizza Enzo with chef Alon Shaya at Domenica in New Orleans!

2010-07-29T17:22:00.000-04:00

Mussel Power

2010-07-21T15:33:00.001-04:00

Chef Robert Wiedmaier's latest venture, Mussel Bar, is set to open July 22, 2010 in Bethesda, Maryland.

UPDATE: Mussel Bar is now open!

Summer Fishing with the Boys!

2010-07-16T10:18:00.001-04:00

The Bourbon, Bacon & BBQ Trail with Simone and the Southern Foodways Alliance

2010-07-02T12:10:00.000-04:00

A Berry Good Day at the Farm with the Guas Boys

2010-06-29T16:05:00.001-04:00

Chugga-Chugga-Choo! Choo!

2010-06-14T10:08:00.000-04:00

Early Friday morning, I’ll be caught a plane to NYC to celebrate my big brother’s 50th birthday – but after my experience on the Patron Tequila Epicurean Express this week, I’d really rather be taking the train. Specifically, that train! Patron’s beautifully restored vintage car far outshines any first-class cabin in which I’ve ever had the pleasure to fly.

The two-day event here in Washington’s Union Station was for the St. Bernard Project, Liz McCarthy and Zack Rosenberg’s powerhouse of a Louisiana charity that is now focusing on helping the fishermen, shrimpers and oystermen whose livelihoods are threatened by the oil spill. They developed this organization in 2006 to help the St Bernard residents displaced from Hurricane Katrina. Teaming up with Patron Tequila, the goal for the Epicurean Express [with additional stops in Chicago, Philadelphia, New Orleans and Los Angeles] was to raise $75,000 to rebuild the houses of three fishermen, and to provide 375 additional hours of mental health services to fishermen and their families.

Thanks to a generous band of top Washington chefs, mixologists, and a few New Orleans colleagues who turned out scores of hors d’oeuvres and a five course dinner [featuring seafood from the Gulf of Mexico] we more than met our portion of the goal. We also made some good friends in the process, and our efforts didn’t go unnoticed: the event got coverage in over a dozen media outlets [and counting…] including The New York Times, The Washington Post, BBC News, Bon Appétit’s Epicurious, and Food & Wine. Here’s hoping that translates into even more support for the St. Bernard Project. And the next time the Patron Tequila Epicurean Express comes to town, I’ll certainly be on board… in more ways that one!

The Patron Tequila Epicurean Express

Aligator Tail!

Brian Landry from Galatoire's

Jeff Tunks from Passion Food Hospitality

All of the chefs with Congressman Charlie Melancon and Lynn Breaux

Congressman Melancon addressing the crowd

Greg Reggio of Zea in New Orleand and David Guas of DamGoodSweet

Damian Torguson from Brasserie Beck

Gina Chersevani from PS 7 - 2010 RAMMY Winner

with Congressman and Mrs. Melancon and Betty Ann Tanner

Brian Landry and Greg Reggio

Todd Thrasher from Restaurant Eve, PX and Majestic

All of the chefs from Wednesday night's dinner

with DC Citycouncilman, Jack Evans and Zack Rosenburg, co-founder of St. Bernard Project

Chefs Move to Schools at The White House

2010-06-04T17:07:00.002-04:00

Chefs David Guas, Jeff Tunks and Robert Wiedmaier were invited along with more than 500 chefs from around the country to join First Lady Michelle Obama at The White House today as part of her Chefs Move to Schools program in the fight against childhood obesity. Each chef will be adopting a school in an effort to revitalize school lunches and make them healthier for students.

Chris Watson, John Currence, David Guas, Linton Hopkins, Jeff Tunks

The Dames of Les Dames D' Escoffier

with Gina Hopkins

Carla Hall and Bryan Voltaggio of Top Chef

David Guas and Pastry Chef, Michael Laiskonis from La Bernardin in New York City

David Guas, Robert Wiedmaier and Tom Colicchio, host of Top Chef

Robert Wiedmaier

David Guas and Bryan Voltaggio

Marcel's Chef de Cuisine, Carla Hall, Robert Wiedmaier and David Guas

David Guas and Pastry Chef, Gale Gand from Tru in Chicago

David Guas and Sherry Yard, Wolfgang Puck's longtime pastry chef

Suicide Watch - Fisherman of St. Bernard Parish

2010-06-02T23:36:00.000-04:00

It’s 9:00 am, Friday, May 29, 2010 in the St. Bernard Project clinic and it is bustling with patients ranging from displaced Katrina families to fisherman needing to see a psychiatrist. Volunteers are flowing in the small office situated amongst warehouse buildings for the all women’s rebuild weekend. 250 women are planning to attend. Then in pops Anna Lynne McCord of 90120 to help build her second home. Then silence takes over when George Barisich, president of the United Commercial Fisherman Association, says, “I was on suicide watch for nine fishermen last night. It has been the worst I have ever seen. We have lost lives in Katrina and now on the wake of its fifth anniversary we are losing lives in the same area of St. Bernard Parish, once again.” This time it is not by a natural disaster, but from a man-made disaster. This is not by choice! Fishermen are taking their own life or are on the verge, because they cannot cope. More fishermen are going to end up dead like their silent ships dead on the water.

One place is turning the stigma of how to cope with HOPE! St.Bernard Project has provided the only free clinic to victims of Katrina since 2006, and now with this BP mess there is even greater demand! The Haiti crisis brought a surge of survivors back to the clinic in fear of being forgotten. Now the numbers are overflowing since the BP oil spill and the LSU medical psychologists and psychiatrists cannot keep up! Fishermen are proud, blue collar workers who live for being on the water. They are resilient like the waters after the storm. They have tirelessly fished and farmed these waters for the country’s benefit of providing glorious seafood from the Gulf of Mexico. These tough men and woman are breaking down. We owe it to them to help them. BP is poisoning their health, and poisoning their livelihood.

Listen and learn the fisherman’s cry for help!

My New Orleans by John Besh Wins 2010 IACP Award

2010-04-27T10:51:00.002-04:00

Chef John Besh and the Besh Restaurant Group are proud to announce that My New Orleans was been chosen as the winner of the 2010 International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) Award for Best American cookbook. The winning cookbook amongst 3 other most impressive contenders— two from New Orleans—the southern gent of desserts, David Guas, native of New Orleans who resides in Washington, DC, brought to the table DamGoodSweet: Desserts to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth, New Orleans Style and Donald Link, the Cajun Maverick of New Orleans, and Swedish toque, Marcus Samuelsson.

The IACP Awards are among the most prestigious in the cookbook writing profession and publishing industry. Over 500 books that “focus on specific foods, cooking methods, techniques or appliances” were submitted for the competition.

My New Orleans is Besh’s first solo-authored cookbook with 16 chapters that bring his native New Orleanian culture, history, recipes and techniques into the kitchens of home cooks everywhere. My New Orleans has also been nominated for a 2010 James Beard Award in the category of “American Cooking”, and the final winners will be announced May 2, 2010.

Rolling, Rolling, Rolling -- at The White House!

2010-04-15T20:09:00.001-04:00

Early on Easter Monday morning, the Easter Bunny found Kemp, Spencer, and yes, yours truly, on the South Lawn of The White House rolling eggs with thousands of enthusiastic fellow Americans. Although the ticket lottery was open to all, we were there thanks to chef Cliff Wharton of TenPenh, whom White House Chef Cristeta Comerford had invited to participate in one of the day’s events called “Play With Your Food” – part of the First Lady’s initiative to combat our nation’s epidemic of childhood obesity.

Cliff demonstrated a dish that parents can prepare in under 15 minutes – and that kids will love [including this big kid, herself – it’s one of my favs on the TenPenh appetizer menu…]: Filipino Summer Rolls with rice noodles, chicken, and shrimp.

Other local chefs included Robert Wiedemaier and Art Smith [Oprah’s former personal chef and a favorite of the First Couple, fairly new to Washington from Chicago]. But among many celebrities [culinary, political, and otherwise!] the undisputed star was the Easter Bunny.

On one side of the TenPenh team [which also included chef owner, Jeff Tunks] was Art Smith, and on the other side was the White House culinary team which in addition to chef Cris included another familiar face: chef Tefari Campbell. I met Tefari 2 years ago when I was assisting in the PR for the Great American Seafood Cookoff where famed competitors like Paula Deen and John Besh in 2004 going at it spatula to sauce pan! Tefari was one of the leading contenders in 2008. He made Maryland proud. Now I am even more proud to see that he is pursuing his passion in cooking and has landed a plum position working with an extremely talented chef, Cris Comeford. I got to know Cris when she came and proudly executed a wonderful meal and cooking class at TenPenh restaurant with Cliff Wharton, highlighting the Philippines and its culture. And of course they would being both Cliff and Chris were born in the Philippines.

Come one, Come all to The Point!

2010-04-12T13:31:00.003-04:00

I’ve been representing The Point for more than ten years now, and the weekend before last I experienced something there for the very first time: children!

Not mine, mind you, but four lively and charming and – yes – very well-behaved youngsters who were the first to break the exclusive Relais & Châteaux property’s longstanding ban on guests below the age of eighteen [except when the entire resort is bought-out by a single party.] The rule makes good sense when you consider that in the traditional house-party atmosphere, dinners are lengthy, lingering, multi-course, grown-up affairs, where guests dress up [black tie on Wednesdays and Saturdays!] and enjoy in-depth conversation and fine wines with fellow guests.

But children are a natural addition to the Great Camp environment in the Adirondack wilderness, and on the last weekend of March, when there was still ice on Upper Saranac Lake but most of the snow was melted away, children were invited to join their parents at The Point for its inaugural Children’s Weekend. And what fun was had by all! General Manager Megan Torrance and her staff planned activities for the youngsters that immersed them in nature and wholesome old-fashioned activities that are the opposite of today’s electronic amusements.

On Friday, they hiked the Orange Trail and created gingerbread houses with Charlene, the very patient pastry chef. They joined their parents for “Cocktails and Mocktails” in the Great Hall for a taste of the grown-up life, before setting out for a rustic dinner at nearby Camp David. Saturday featured a morning and picnic lunch at the Wild Center, for supervised encounters with all sorts of creatures native to the Adirondack region. While parents enjoyed their black tie dinner that night, the children feasted in The Pub with entertainment by a real live magician – who even taught them a few tricks of the trade. Families were re-united at the Bonfire, where the kids were busy making their own gourmet s’mores.

After breakfast on Sunday, families were treated to a visit with some fine feathered friends: a local falconer brought a falcon and an owl to The Great Hall, and the kids got to don a heavy leather gauntlet and let the birds perch on their arms. The afternoon was filled with lively games of Twister inside; and croquet and kickball in the great outdoors. On Monday before everyone had to get back to work and school, they squeezed in one last hike up Panther Mountain.

Much as I have always loved The Point just the way it is, I think they’ve really hit upon an improvement here. It was great to have the energy, spirit and natural curiosity of kids around – and still get to sit down to our elegant dinner in peace! Thanks to the great kids who made this first Children’s Weekend experiment such a success, I’m sure there will be more to come. I hope so – because Kemp and Spencer would just love it…

for a little lagniappe...

2010-02-16T17:46:00.000-05:00

Check out the boys on The Today Show!

Snow Days!

2010-02-12T15:25:00.003-05:00

A few pictures from the DC area's recent Snowpocolypse and Snowmageddon which resulted in the breaking of the record for the snowiest winter on record set during the winter of 1898-99.

No School!

Those Sweet Saints

2010-02-04T15:40:00.002-05:00

Pastry chef David Guas loves it here in Washington, his adopted home these past twelve years, but his heart is in New Orleans – and New Orleans is gearing up for a month to remember. Normally, to say that the weeks leading up to Mardi Gras is ‘high season’ is an understatement in the extreme; now, with the beloved Saints headed for the Super Bowl for the first time in franchise history, well, that’s the icing on the cake, the cherry on top -- in fact, it’s a little like getting to eat your dessert first [as the big game falls on February 7, a full nine days prior to Mardi Gras.]

Dam Good Sweet, Desserts to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth New Orleans Style [Taunton Press, November 2009,] is Guas’ tribute to his hometown’s dessert heritage, not the grand restaurant confections, but the comforting, home-style delights of childhood. What better way to prime and ready your Super Bowl extravaganza than with the ‘divine’ treats among Guas’ recommendations, including the salty Caramel Peanut Popcorn, traditional Pralines, and, because no high profile game involving a name like The Saints should be without it, an ultra-sweet known as Heavenly Hash.

Guas’ book has already won coveted accolades from top publications: “Favorite New Dessert Cookbooks,” Food & Wine Magazine; “One of Thirteen Best Cookbooks,”AOL's Slashfood.com; and one of three cookbooks that "Make Baking More Fun Than Ever," Saveur magazine. Dam Good Sweet is consistently landing on all the top cookbook lists for its southern style desserts that can be prepared in home kitchens everywhere.

To become a Saint for the day on February 7th - or just for the dessert course – check out Dam Good Sweet and hit the kitchen before you hit the couch , to whip up one of New Orleans' sweetest.

And check out "The Soul of New Orleans" video to really get you in the spirit!

New York Moments

2010-01-29T17:32:00.002-05:00

Every few years, my dear friends Annie and Tommy pop over from London and give me the great privilege and pleasure of escorting them to New York, where I once lived and of which they still, kindly, consider me expert. I guess I do manage to keep up…

Last weekend, the tables were turned, however, and when we all touched down in the Big Apple, it was they who did the impressive hosting, bringing me to two quite fabulous new places they’re connected with, through friends back in London: Le Caprice in the newly renovated Pierre, and the Monkey Bar in the Elysée – both gorgeous and oh-so-glam! To shake things up, we always stay in a different part of town, and this time, except for drinks and dinner --oh yes, and our visit to MoMA to catch the end of the breathtaking Bauhaus exhibition -- it was a downtown experience. We checked right into the Ritz-Carlton Battery Park, where could wake up to a view of Lady Liberty herself.

Saturday night at The Monkey Bar was like wandering in to Hollywood of another era: I kept having the feeling that Bette Davis was about to walk around the corner. To begin with classic cocktails seemed the right thing to do in such an atmosphere, and Tommy and Annie started off with martinis, James Bond style. I put the bartender to the test by requesting an old school daiquiri – not frozen. He passed with flying colors.

And for Le Caprice, New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton, in his list of the best dishes from the best restaurants that opened in 2009, chose one from Le Caprice, and I was anxious to try it: the Smoked Haddock Tart. Indeed, it lived up to all his promises and all my expectations, and set a new standard for fish, in my book – and for tarts too, come to think of it. However, that was all about what I liked at the restaurant. I did not want to burst Tommy and Annie’s bubble at the time, but truth be told now.

Is was nice to sit back and not have the pressure of getting into the savvy places on everyone food writer’s list. I am usually the one hitting the streets to try it all with a few chef friends to go along for the culinary ride. I think I’m going to have to let Annie and Tommy take the New York lead more often…and put them to the test!

PS I did sneak a place I love so much and the chef is a friend- Artisanal by Chef Terrance Brennan. But Oh the array of cheeses that are over flowing at this restaurant and where it all began- Picholine- by the city’s first celebrity maître fromager, Max McCalman. I happen to have a fondness for the places as was there with them and helped to be a part of their success when I was brought on by the public relations company to help their publicity. Wow! That was about 12 years ago!

HO HO HO!

2009-12-23T15:03:00.000-05:00

Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas!

The weather outside is frightful (no way it's sledding time), yet it so delightful ( yea no school!)… let it snow, let it snow, let is snow… ( Santa will surely come as he thinks it is the North Pole!)

Happy Holidays from Simone Rathle and her helpers, Kemp and Spencer!

A 'Victory' for New Orleans

2009-12-23T10:23:00.004-05:00

The National World War II Museum was unveiling something new November 6-9 and it was going to be big in many ways. D-Day for me was going to be November 6, 2009, when the star studded cast of distinguished guests were paying tribute to the men and woman of World War II. I’m not talking about the celebs on stage like Tom Brokaw, Patricia Clarkson, and Tom Hanks, but the true stars of the day: the 300 or so World War II veterans in attendance. My niece, Aimee Rathle (14 years old), got to accompany her “Auntie Monie” to what I indicated was to be a Social Studies project. I truly believed it would be a great experience for her and Aimee had every intention to learn something, but as soon as she caught a glimpse of Hanks, all bets were off! Her goal was to say hello and get a picture with him. “It would be the coolest thing,” Aimee said, nudging at every moment.

I made her pay attention during the whole ceremony and understand the importance and sacrifices of the veterans sitting directly behind us, standing proud for fighting for us and supporting the rights of this country, and rightfully so. It was warm day and the sun was beaming ferociously down on all of us. I saw water bottles under each of the veteran’s chairs but most were not able to bend down so far, so I began to grab the waters underneath their chairs to give it to them. I stopped counting and made sure they were completing hydrated! It was wonderful to listen to Gordan Mueller and speak of his great friend Stephen Ambrose. The museum would not be here today if it was not for Mr. Ambrose - a man with vision, heart and determination. He wanted to give these brave men and women something back for all their unconditional love for this country… our country… my country!

When you visit New Orleans and the National World War II Museum, you will ‘experience the victory’ of the museum through its Solomon Victory Theatre’s 4-D movie, Beyond All Boundaries produced by Hanks! The Stage Door Canteen is what will keep you hopping with live entertainment, and my friend and longtime business associate John Besh's new restaurant, The American Sector, brings back nostalgic meals that was on every American table in the 40’s and 50’s. It’s simple, but one of my most favorite dishes is the Heirloom Tomato Soup – creamy and delicious, and the grilled ham and cheese. I skip the ham but you have to love that seriously melted cheese just oozing out with great flavor.

At the end of the day, Aimee’s wish came true and her Auntie Monie got bumped up in the cool category for a few months. Teenagers! Thanks Mom for surviving those years with me.

"Victory belongs to the most persevering." - Napoleon Bonaparte

That's Entertainment!

2009-12-08T16:48:00.003-05:00

Don’t we all have a television fantasy? You know the one, where you deliver a confident, polished – even witty – performance, and the director, producers, and your fellow ‘talent’ beg you to come back for more?

Pastry Chef David Guas is living the dream, fresh from his eleventh appearance on The Today Show, which coincided, remarkably, with the 11th of November. David explains that after all this time, while he’ll never deny that he takes each appearance very seriously, and that, yes, there are still butterflies, he’s now able to relax on air.

It’s a good thing, because on live television, anything could happen – and often does. Like the time David was demonstrating a kid-friendly Pumpkin Seed Oat Crunch recipe and turned an induction burner on at the far end of the set to start caramelizing his honey. A minute later, Al was yelling “We got a fire over here!” as co-host, Natalie Morales, ran on from backstage brandishing a fire extinguisher. Once you can roll with that kind of punch, you can handle anything.

Which is why he got back on the horse, so to speak, torching a crème brûlée on a later appearance. He offered to change his plans when the producer mentioned they’ve have a licensed fire marshall on-set for the entire segment, but they said “no, no; this is just the way we do things here.” And sure enough, the New York City safety official checked the blow-torch [provided by The Today Show,] and stood at alert while David demonstrated his poise under fire – literally.

And yet his most memorable show has nothing to do with fire, but rather, the time when Hoda and Kathie Lee were ‘helping’ him make his signature beignets. “The dough was pretty sticky – ok, I hadn’t floured it, so you could call it a set up. I handed the rolling pin to Hoda, who saw what was coming and passed it right along to Kathie Lee, who dove right in, finger bling and all. People kept telling me it was like an I Love Lucy episode – too funny, and the kind of thing that can only be improvised by good natured people with a knack for slapstick. It was a riot, and it would have been, had it happened in my own kitchen or on national television.”

David typically shows up at the studio for an hour-long rehearsal the afternoon before each appearance. He doesn’t know for sure who his host will be until the next morning, and probably won’t even speak to him, her, or them until a minute or so before he’s on. So the rehearsal is all about getting the cooking demo down pat – all the ingredients, all the equipment, and the order of operations. Luckily, Bianca, the behind-the-scenes chef/stylist, is there to take care of everything, adding her television skills to David’s culinary prowess. “Having Bianca there in the wings makes it seem homey and comfortable, even under the glaring lights,” says David, “and now I feel pretty much at home, sneaking in to the kitchen for coffee when I arrive in the morning, instead of waiting in the Green Room.”

Other aspects of television took some getting used to. “I’m sure I still don’t understand all the union rules,” he laughs, “there’s a different union handler for every kind of equipment – someone let me have it when I picked up a spatula in the equipment room; apparently there’s someone in charge of the spatulas, and that’s that.” The props are chosen before the show in the morning, from what David calls “a giant room of goodies – every imaginable kind of cake stand or platter.” Ed, the set designer, will pop in to make sure everything looks all right, and between him and Bianca, all David has to worry about is his own performance. Which, watching him live, seems like a piece of cake!

Hog Wild

2009-11-13T17:14:00.004-05:00

With the onset of fall, a few of the local Harley-riding chefs known as the District Hogs break the pen and head to the woods -- specifically, to a blind on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, widely considered the country’s best terrain for goose hunting. Pastry chef David Guas, who grew up enjoying the country’s best duck hunting in southern Louisiana, now has the best of both worlds when he shoots geese at the property of a close buddy in the industry out in Maryland. He’s usually joined by a rotating cast of Hog colleagues, including Robert Wiedmaier of Marcel’s, Brasserie Beck, and Brabo fame, and Vidalia’s RJ Cooper.

In a few weeks, Guas will be heading out to ‘re-dress’ the property’s three blinds, in advance of the season opening around Thanksgiving. He’ll help cut new evergreen, cornstalks, grasses, and other natural materials to cover and disguise the plywood shelters from which they shoot. “It’s my way of giving something back to our host,” he explains, “besides my standard offering of peanut brittle to stock the blinds.”

Of course, with a crowd like this, food plays a significant role in any event, and gourmet peanut brittle is just the beginning. Guas reminisces about a meal on the last day of goose season last year, featuring Robert’s venison chili, fresh seared duck breast, his own roasted cauliflower casserole and lemon meringue pies. “I much prefer eating duck to goose, which can be tough and pretty gamey” he says, “but RJ gave me a great recipe for goose pastrami that seems to be the ideal treatment: you roll the breast meat in heavy salt and spices – coriander, cinnamon, and so on, then cool them on a drying rack/sheet pan in the refrigerator again. Then I hang them in cheesecloth for about a month to cure them; I find that in my northern Virginia garage, the temperature at the end of the season is just about perfect for the job – about 50 degrees – so I rig a broomstick between my tool cabinet and workbench, and hang them right over with butcher’s twine. Then I’ll cryovac them, and pull them as needed. It’s do-it-yourself charcuterie.”

Guas loves the ritual of hunting waterfowl, as much as the game itself, and has fond childhood memories of hunting with male family members and friends. Within a few years, he hopes to pass his own first shotgun on to his elder son, who has also expressed an interest. “I’ll probably bring him along to the blind this season, with earplugs,” he says, “to expose him to the reality and discomfort, and frankly, for a kid, long stretches of boredom. Then if he’s still raring to go, we’ll get him in to a hunting safety course to do it right.”

With a supply of his father’s peanut brittle in the blind, heck, what’s not to enjoy?

Rachel’s Kids, Part II

2009-11-05T18:35:00.002-05:00

It’s time to take another brief break from the whirl of restaurant openings and cookbook launches to provide a happy update from the Kenyan Postal Service front: nearly three months after I first wrote about my friend Rachel Jones and her mission to help the children of PCEA Muniu Primary School in an impoverished refugee camp two hours outside Nairobi [where she is now living,] the boxes I’d shipped have been delivered.

With superhuman mental discipline, energy, and determination – hopefully no bribes necessary this time – Rachel tackled the postal service and collected the boxes of my boys’ outgrown summer clothes, gently used toys, and new workbooks, and delivered them personally to the school. The government has completely abandoned these refugees, she explains, and so they are amazed when people so far away care about their plight.

“I wish you could have heard the squeals of delight!” she writes. But I don’t have to; these photos say it all. The clothes, she says, are desperately needed, and the books will be used in English language class. What you can’t see, though, and what really made me cry was this line from her letter: “you'll be happy to know that the bag full of action figures is perfect for the mental health counseling sessions for the kids in the refugee camps. The counselors were really thrilled to see them.”

True to her promise, with the help of the English language teacher, Rachel has identified a pen pal for my son Kemp. “He is a 6-year-old boy named Duncan Mbugua, in Form 1 (like American First Grade), one of the top kids in the English class. I've asked him to write a letter to Kemp, so they can be pen pals. I will let you know when he's finished and when I'll be putting it in the mail,” she writes. Kemp is beside himself with excitement, suspense, and plans – these pictures, and the prospect of a friendship with Duncan have already expanded his 7-year-old world more than Rachel knows. An enormous return on a few cartons of old clothes –

Chef Shaya Visits Jefferson Elementary

2009-10-22T16:22:00.004-04:00

It must have come as a delightful surprise to 3rd grade teacher Lana Nuccio of Jefferson Elementary School when Chef Alon Shaya greeted her and her husband as they were dining at his new restaurant -- and revealed his interest and experience in providing cooking demos for young students.

Shaya, executive chef and partner at Domenica, the latest venture of renowned chef John Besh, has spent much of the last year-and-a-half preparing for the restaurant’s opening – much of that time training in and around Parma, perfecting his understanding of the culture and cuisine of the Italian countryside. Still, he managed to remain involved in New Orleans Outreach, an innovative program dedicated to enriching the quality of the city’s public schools by linking them with volunteers and other community resources. “It’s a great program,” says Shaya, “not only because it gives them instruction, but because it improves their quality of life. For instance, I go into a kindergarten and do a cooking demo, but I’m stressing the importance of being in the kitchen together as a family. It’s how I learned to cook, and it’s the basis of my bond with my mother and grandmother.”

So the following week, Shaya and Felicia Dewey, one of his cooks at Domenica, drove the ten minutes to Jefferson Parish and unloaded their gear: everything necessary to create Lasagne Bolognese and Gianduja Budino, or hazelnut chocolate pudding – plus enough hot, pre-cooked lasagna for the entire third grade – all 55 students.
“When I was growing up in Philadelphia,” recalls Shaya, “kids wanted to be firemen and policemen. I don’t think it even occurred to anyone to want to cook for a living. But I went in and asked them who wanted to be a chef, and all the hands went up! I think it’s thanks to all the cooking shows, the profession is getting so much more visibility. It’s really heartening.”

Shaya showed them how to make the pasta and the meat sauce from scratch, as well as how to assemble all the layers. Then he slid it under the table, “my ‘magic oven!’” pulling out the prepared dish, piping hot and ready to serve. Topped off with a dessert of chocolate pudding [candied hazelnut topping optional] the students had a mighty fine Italian feast, plus a heaping serving of inspiration and encouragement. Who knows? Maybe our next great generation of chefs will be coming out of Jefferson Elementary School….

DamGoodSweet Sell Out at Disney

2009-10-16T18:19:00.005-04:00

Pastry chef David Guas packed up his knives (and mouse ears) and moved into the kitchens at Disney World’s Epcot Theme Park for the 14th Annual Epcot International Food & Wine Festival last week. David participated in two demos, both of which were sold out, one by more than 30 people!

Kicking things off on October 9, chef David Guas prepared Chocolate Cupped Cakes with Coffee and Chicory before having his first book signing for DamGoodSweet. Sundays are the sweetest days at the festival, and on October 11, David was the featured chef for Sweet Sundays where he will whipped up three desserts selected from DamGoodSweet: Banana Pudding with Vanilla Wafer Crumble, and just in time for Halloween treats, Heavenly Hash and Caramel Peanut Popcorn, and hosted a second book signing. By the end of the signing, David had sold all of the books and was signing photos and programs!

The 14th Annual Epcot International Food & Wine Festival began September 25 and continues until November 8, 2009 and features more than 60 visiting wineries, breweries and distilleries and more than 100 visiting chefs and speakers including Todd English, Cat Cora and Andrew Zimmern.

Roosevelt Grand Opening Celebration

2009-10-09T12:53:00.010-04:00

October 23-25th, 2009

Domenica is honored to be a part of the legendary celebration, the grand opening of the historic hotel – The Roosevelt New Orleans. Join us for an unforgettable weekend of famous performers including a Friday night celebration with the Neville Brothers, the Saturday evening black-tie Grand Opening Gala with Allen Toussaint and Irma Thomas, and a Sunday morning Champagne Jazz Brunch with renowned clarinetist, Tim Laughlin.

There was never any question that the restaurant anchoring the always elegant, newly renovated Roosevelt Hotel would be anything but sophisticated and true to the Italian heritage found in New Orleans. Besh Restaurant Group is proud to have Domenica as part of the revitalization of a New Orleans landmark. Home to the legendary Blue Room and The Sazerac Bar, The Roosevelt’s splendid interiors boast a history of glamour and the goings-on of high society, the infamous underworld, and everyone in between. Now with Domenica offering simplicity in pure modern sophistication, The Roosevelt is complete with authentic Italian cuisine with a few sly and calculated nods to the Old World.

To make reservations for the Roosevelt Hotel event, please call 504.648.1200

Domenica Restaurant

Roosevelt Hotel

123 Baronne Street

New Orleans, Louisiana 70112

(504) 648-6020

Facebook.com/DomenicaRestaurant

Twitter @chefjohnbesh

Milky Way

2009-10-02T09:42:00.004-04:00

Through his Havana-born father, there is a certain amount of sweetened condensed milk flowing in David Guas’ veins.

“When my sister Tracy and I were little, we loved it when our dad would demonstrate his quick-method for making dulce de leche. All it involved was peeling the paper label off a can of sweetened condensed milk – Borden’s or Eagle, it didn’t matter which – and boiling it, completely sealed, for a couple of hours. I happen to like mine really dark,” he points out, “so now I let the can simmer for a good six hours.” Their father still never tires of telling the story of when he and his brother, as children, forgot to keep the boiling pot topped off with water: after a while, the can exploded, blasting dulce de leche all over the kitchen – ceiling, light fixtures, you name it. They got in big trouble, but that didn’t put them off the sweet stuff.

And sure enough, when Guas made a pilgrimage to Miami to learn about Cuban desserts first-hand from his aunts and cousins there, he found sweetened condensed milk in abundance. Their friend and housemate, Teresita, who cooked homemade desserts for a number of local eateries, made her great big sheets of flan with nothing but sweetened condensed milk and egg yolks. “My own technique is a little more complex – a few more ingredients keep if from setting as firmly as hers – but it just goes to show you how they use the stuff in the old country. It’s a real staple.”

“Oddly,” he reminisces, “one of my favorite condensed milk memories growing up is not at all Cuban, but pure New Orleans. Sno-balls were a regular treat of my childhood, and the ‘crème de la crème’ version of this summertime delicacy was to choose your favorite flavor and have it drizzled liberally with sweetened condensed milk. I loved strawberry syrup – also chocolate – on the fluffy shaved ice with milk; if you were going all-out, you’d also have it ‘stuffed’ with soft serve ice cream. Nothing cooler, nothing sweeter.”

These days, sweetened condensed milk is a key component of Guas’ key lime tarts, lemon ice-box pie, and, of course, flan. He likes his dulce de leche [very dark] with ice cream. He drizzles it on top, heating it up for more fluidity, and often swirls it right in when churning his own. His father? “He would dig out a great big spoonful for himself – to eat plain – whenever he transferred it from the boiled can to a jar or Tupperware container to store in the fridge,” says Guas, “Too rich -- and believe it or not -- too sweet for me!”

Molto Bene!

2009-09-23T16:30:00.004-04:00

Just before i bambini were due back in school, I whisked them off to New Orleans – their home away from home – for the long-awaited opening of Domenica. John Besh and his executive chef / partner Alon Shaya got it just right: cozy, relaxed but lively, and really, really good.

Anchoring the just-renovated Roosevelt Hotel a stone’s throw from the Quarter, Domenica was inspired by the bountiful Sunday feasts of the Italian countryside – hence its name, which means “Sunday” in Italian. Shaya and his team have immersed themselves in the intricacies of Italian culture over the past year, and it shows in the layers of detail that build the ambience of the restaurant, which is at the same time rustic and sophisticated. Long central communal tables underscore its warm and friendly nature; timber salvaged from a long-submerged vessel gets a second chance as flooring full of old-world character; intricate collages of Italian product labels adorn the walls, and the wooden tables wear nothing but their paper menus, which double as placemats. The white leather cushioning the wooden banquettes and the monumental modern crystal chandeliers and sleek stainless surfaces in the elevated bar area are completely contemporary, though, as is the stunning curtain of bronze chain that creates a sense of intimacy around the communal tables.

An extensive menu of Shaya’s authentically prepared estate-raised pork products vies for attention with the array of homemade pastas and toothsome risottos, braised meats, and local seafood fried to perfection or swimming in a delicate broth. My boys (as usual,) couldn’t get enough of the pizzas. But even at their tender ages, I think they sensed something special about the irresistible blistery-crusted pies baked in a 9,800 lb. wood-burning pizza oven with a rotating stone deck – the only one of its kind in this country! Head over to Domenica any day of the week from 11am ‘til 11pm, and you surely will, too…. Buon appetito!

Citizen Cane

2009-09-11T10:27:00.003-04:00

Just as early spring is when the maple trees are tapped up north, down in southern Louisiana, fall means sugar cane season, when the endless acres of cane are cut, stripped, and boiled down in open kettles to produce the region’s beloved sticky cane syrup. Steen’s Cane Syrup, in its iconic yellow cans, is a staple in every New Orleans pantry; it’s been produced by the Steen family in Abbeville, Louisiana for nearly 100 years.

One of David Guas’ favorite uses for cane syrup (besides being poured generously over pancakes) is in Gâteau de Sirop. Cane syrup is a close-cousin to molasses, and this cake is basically a gingerbread, distinguished by fresh grated ginger and a splash of Crystal Hot Sauce for extra punch. Served warm with vanilla ice cream and swimming in plenty of extra syrup, it was a holiday staple in the Guas house when he was growing up in New Orleans – and still is in his own house here in northern Virginia.

The recipe is featured in DamGoodSweet: Desserts to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth, New Orleans Style, David’s first cookbook. An advance copy just arrived here in the office, and it looks good enough to eat – with syrup on top.

La Vie Provencale

2009-09-03T16:08:00.004-04:00

After a crowded preview party for “La Vie Provencale” with all the decorators in situ and Provencial food from Patti Constantine, Palate New Orleans, Café Degas and Sucre, the first decorator show house since Katrina opened in the home of the Alliance Francaise de La Nouvelle Orleans. This venerated educational center in the Garden District is where “tout le monde” goes to learn and keep up their French!

The new crop of hot young local designers and decorative painters like Grace W. Kaynor, Trudy Hurley, Nadine Blake, E. Lee Jahnke Mead joined their mentors and friends Sherry Haydel, Kathy Slimp, and Anne Bishton. New Yorkers and ex-New Yorkers (Jennifer Flanders, Ned Marshall and Roy Malone) added their special touch like dark green-blue peacock walls, Ferragamo covered divans, Brazilian fabrics and contemporary sculpture. George Hewitt showed me his magical LED mirror that wiped wrinkles away—not that I need one mind you!!

The outside was refurbished by donations of plants and the help of local landscape designers. To top it off, three adorable Smart Cars in “bleu, blanc et rouge” were parked in front (they are made in France.) I was amazed to see the old blue and white sidewalk letter tiles installed in the cement in front of the building: a young man called Nick … has rediscovered the secret and now everyone can name their street or business in that old traditional way.

Who needs to go to France? New Orleans is it! Now if only they had a petanque field...

Don’t Pigeonhole the Pastry Chef

2009-08-31T12:14:00.002-04:00

David Guas, pastry chef par excellence, may be defined by sugar, butter, and chocolate by day, but at home cooking dinner for his wife (a busy professional who loves food but doesn’t cook it) and their two young boys, he’s all about healthy savory dinners. And while they’re all ‘good eaters,’ he knows, to put it in restaurant lingo, exactly ‘what sells.’

They don’t eat much red meat, and in fact, in this economy, he says he won’t buy the high-end cuts anyway. Turkey, however, is a family favorite, and shows up in everything from Turkey Meatballs (served in David’s homemade marinara over spaghetti) to Turkey Burgers (lots of Worcestershire sauce, garlic salt, and onion powder) to Baked Ziti (in the same marinara softened with heavy cream, layered with no fewer than four cheeses, parboiled pasta, and topped with lightly oiled panko crumbs before baking.)

Turkey tacos are a Sunday night favorite, with everyone joining in to assemble the goods. David sweats a chopped onion then adds the ground turkey with cumin and a touch of chili powder: while one of his boys is starting to emulate Papi (as they call him) by getting into hot sauces – the other “freaks out over too much black pepper” –

Sometimes he’ll roast a chicken heavily seasoned inside and out with a dry rub of herbs and a little lemon zest. A butter massage under the breast skin helps create pockets of moisture (and can’t hurt the flavor, right?) He’ll start it in a 425˚ oven, then after about 20 minutes, lowers the temperature to 350; it’s done in roughly an hour, total.

On the side, the boys are big fans of green beans, which David boils and tosses with olive oil instead of butter. They also love his salad of blanched, chilled green beans tossed with sliced red onion, feta, almonds, and olive oil. Twice-baked potatoes, a childhood favorite of his own, are always a hit. After baking the Idaho potatoes, he mixes the contents with butter, buttermilk or sourcream, green onions, Monterey Jack and sharp cheddar before stuffing it back into the lightly salted jacket halves. “The boys could easily make a meal of those alone,” he’s convinced.

This summer, he’s been taking advantage of all the good local sweet corn, and serving it boiled and cut off the cob mixed with some sweet Vidalia onion, sweated ‘til translucent, and butter. Other nights he’ll make a (slightly) more elaborate corn salad with red onion and cilantro.

No, it’s not all puddings and pastries at the Guas house. In fact, dinner sounds like it might give dessert some stiff competition.

On Top of Spaghetti

2009-08-26T10:28:00.004-04:00

With the opening of Domenica, John Besh’s rustic Italian enterprise, now on the horizon, I thought a brief tutorial on its various pastas would be in order. In all shapes and sizes, these tender morsels – each in a flavorful sauce traditionally dictated by the noodle’s characteristics – will make you lean back in your chair sighing “Mama mia!”

Spaghetti, you already know; here at Domenica, it will be offered simply tossed with olive oil, garlic, herbs, and Parmigiano. Linguini – who knew?- means ‘little tongues,” thanks to its flat, narrow shape; try it here with Louisiana shrimp, shaved bottarga, chiles and mint. These two are fine imported Italian pastas; the rest are handmade in house, just as Executive Chef Alon Shaya and key members of his team were taught to make them during their extensive training in Parma.

Anolini, small semi-circular pockets, are stuffed with braised pork and prosciutto, and served with chanterelles, herbs, and Pecorino. Stracci, literally ‘rags,’ are hand-torn herbed noodles served with oxtail ragu and fried chicken livers. The Lasagne Bolognese is a sauce of ground veal, beef, and pork layered with green spinach noodles. Tagliatelle are quarter-inch ribbons of spinach or egg pasta, served at Domenica with a braised rabbit ragu and summer squash. Fazzoletti, another of the many descriptive pasta terms, means ‘little handkerchiefs” -- indeed, these are flat, loosely folded squares of pasta, sometimes filled, sometimes not – tossed with housemade guanciale, heirloom tomatoes, and basil at Domenica, you can’t go wrong.

DamGoodSweet, The Book

2009-08-21T12:11:00.002-04:00

David Guas’ first cookbook [Taunton Press, Fall 2009] was jump-started by his intense emotional response to Hurricane Katrina wiping out so much of his hometown – including his parents’ home. “It was then,” he writes in his introduction, “I knew I had to record not only the dessert recipes of the region, but my memories, too.”

The book, to be published in November, was featured in Publisher’s Weekly earlier this summer. Taunton Press spokesperson Pamela Duevel called it “a Taunton house favorite,” which acquiring editor Carolyn Mandarano attributes to Guas’ talent, attitude and commitment. “David’s voice is so passionate. He loves the city.” DamGoodSweet, the write-up continues, is “a combination of a memoir and a cookbook, where the author’s memory of going to Galatoire’s on Bourbon Street with his family every year for Christmas leads into a recipe for Double Chocolate Bread Pudding with Salted Bourbon Caramel Sauce.”

Well, who are we to argue with Publisher’s Weekly?

But enough about rich and heavy Christmas desserts when it’s 100 degrees in the shade these days. In a chapter called, sure enough, “100 Degrees in the Shade,” Damgoodsweet will also provide plenty of truly chill treats to cool you down and sweeten your spirits. How about Watermelon Granita-Topped Sno-Balls? In a brilliant adaptation, Guas concedes that he can’t possibly replicate the distinctly fluffy texture of a New Orleans Sno-Ball, so much softer than its crunchy northern cousin [actually he can: unlike most of us, he owns a big old Hansen Sno-Bliz, the classic mechanized ice-shaving machine] so he offers up a recipe that yields a comparably satisfying dessert, complete with soft vanilla ice cream underneath the light fruity ice. And speaking of ice cream, the ice cream flavors in this chapter range from Cane Syrup to Brandy Milk Punch – a real taste of the south, in each cold, sweet spoonful.

As Good as it Gets

2009-08-19T13:31:00.006-04:00

John Besh knows that on every great menu, while many things do change and evolve, there are other items that are, simply put, ‘as good as it gets.’

At Restaurant August, that would be the pumpkin seeds. Since October 2001, when August opened its doors and upped the culinary ante in town, Besh’s signature salad has been his Organic greens with pumpkin seed brittle, Point Reyes blue cheese and pumpkin seed oil vinaigrette. No sense messing with these perfect complements of sweet and salty, smooth and crunchy, all dressing up a pure and simple bed of greens.

Likewise, his foie gras prepared three ways was on the original menu at August – and remains there by popular demand. Two of the three ways it is presented on the plate adapt to the season: these days, his foie gras ‘pastrami’ (cured, smoked, and rolled into a torchon) is served with a pickled local chanterelle salad; and the foie gras blackberry ‘crème caramel’ is dependent on the seasonal berries. But the foie gras in a baumkuchen crust, the delicate liver wrapped in layered sponge cake with aged balsamic and a Champagne gélée, is the constant, having achieved a timeless perfection unaffected by the vagaries of the growing seasons.

The hand-made potato gnocchi tossed with blue crab and Perigold truffle is also a popular favorite from day one, varying only when fresh truffles are not available, and we must resign ourselves (*sigh*) to their dried state. P&J Oysters have always graced the August menu, and as John Besh is a champion of local fishermen and seafood, now more than ever, they always will. He serves them up crispy fried with Louisiana caviar “ranch dressing,” pepper seared, with truffle spoon bread, horseradish crusted.

Some signatures just never go out of style!

Cock"taling" it in New Orleans

2009-08-14T13:57:00.005-04:00

Trips back home mean connecting with my family and clients, making it all mesh in a timely fashion. They typically start with visits with my long term, good friends, who happen to be members of the media (and I adore!) and then with family. I “fly” out of my brother’s house in the morning and arrive back late at night.

This particular weekend I was entertaining a “virgin visitor” to New Orleans, Polly Weidmaier, and catching up with famed D.C. chefs, Robert Weidmaier (her husband) and Michel Richard. To be an escort in my own city is something I truly love, being able to give the behind-the-scenes tour of such a soulful place. What makes it special are the local peeps: everyone has a story…a really good story of what New Orleans means to them.

Polly and I popped in to my brother’s to see where I usually lay my head when in town. His is a beautiful, French-style house in Old Metairie. Hugged my niece Aimee, who is now about 2 inches taller than me, and my nephew, Max, who is catching up in height. Assured Aimee I would attend her summer camp play (I did and she will definitely end up on stage—an incredible natural).

Then we were Uptown bound, to where Polly and I were staying—with my friend of over thirty years, Karen Gundlach, to change and hit the city, just us girls. We dined at Coquette, a new restaurant on Magazine and Washington Streets. Adorable place, very good food, but this trip was to become all about the cocktails. I missed ‘Tales of the Cocktail’ the weekend before, so Polly and I planned to make our own version of one of the best events for the city (created by Ann Tuennerman.)

In the spirit of our miniature event, four cocktails were brought to the table. After one sip, we all looked at one another wide-eyed and simultaneously said, WOW! Yes, we knew cocktails originated in New Orleans, and that the town would not let us down, but these were the best I had ever tasted. We had the Belle Fleur, orange-infused vodka and a healthy twist of lemon; and the Blueberry Crush; but the pièce de resistance was the Kahlo that rocked our taste-buds with jalapeño-infused tequila, orange zest, palm sugar and kaffir lime.

The night was not complete until we went to “The Cure!” A new bar in a neighborhood where in the past I would barely stop at a red light. While not exactly the “hood,” it bordered on being a rough area of town, enough to subconsciously check that the doors were locked. It’s great that someone’s investing in a part of the city that has such potential.

We owned the bar that Thursday night. I was hooked! Polly and Karen loved it. We had the undivided attention of a true mixologist. We all became part of the game. We would tell him flavors we liked and he would put a splash here and a pinch there, and a drop, a drop and another drop. Potion bottles lined up along the bar looked fresh out of a scene from Bewitched! His concoction honored my request for something citrusy and tart. It was presented in an elegant little glass, and I, for the first time, understood why famed restaurant writer and critic John Mariani loves a traditional straight-up daiquiri. He always carries the recipe on the back of his business card. There is no going back to any other cocktail. The Cure makes for pure entertainment with all the excitement coming from the magical mixologists!

Plenty more tales to tell about dining with Michel Richard and Robert Weidmaier in New Orleans – stay tuned!

Rachel's Children

2009-08-04T09:49:00.003-04:00

So I’m going to take a rare break from the hospitality industry for a moment and tell you about a project that is dear to my heart – mostly because it sprang from my dear friend Rachel Jones, intrepid international journalist and ‘sister of a different mother’ as she calls us.

Vacation was to begin for all of us this past Saturday on August 1, but office needed my attention with so many projects at hand. I assured the family I would be with them on August 5 for Kemp’s birthday. As for Rachel, she is the reason why, when I dropped my ‘boys’ (husband and little ones, Kemp 7 and Spencer 5,) at the airport at 6am Saturday morning, I rushed back to the house, collected the best of the outgrown kids’ clothes and shoes languishing in the basement, then headed up to their rooms to cull all the toys I thought they wouldn’t miss too much. I packed them up in two giant boxes and was at the post office when it opened. $200 later, they were off to Kenya, and the good care of Rachel. Rachel, you see, has been lending a hand to children in Nairobi, and, with her insatiable nose for a story, came upon one that has become her personal mission: about two hours away is an Internally Displaced Persons Camp, a makeshift refuge of dismal poverty. Rachel has taken its PCEA Muniu Primary School under her wing.

She delivers food and supplies as often as she can, supplementing her own generosity with donations from friends and family back home. When she was last in the States, we had a farewell dinner just before she left and she showed me photos that just about broke my heart: little children, about my boys’ age, wearing nothing but tattered shirts. Another wearing just one shoe. I told her then and there that I would be sending regular packages of boys’ clothes and toys – Lord knows we all have so much more than we need, right?

Sadly, it isn’t as simple as it all should be. Rachel reported that when my first box arrived, it took her the better part of a day, ridiculously frustrating lines, forms, and ultimately, bribes, to take possession of her own property. And that’s only after the customs officials rifled through the contents – ostensibly to determine the ‘tax,’ but helping themselves to whatever they fancied. The whole experience, she vents, makes our postal system seem like ‘a day at the spa’ by comparison.

Still, if any of it gets through to ‘Rachel’s children,’ it’s worth it. If any of you reading are moved to replicate the gesture – well, think of it: we could outfit the whole village. Imagine the difference a complete pair of shoes would make to a child who has none – or only one. It made me so proud earlier this summer when Kemp told the babysitter he planned to give his proceeds from the yard sale they were holding ‘to the children Mommy is helping.’ He’s written them a letter, and Rachel is working on establishing a penpal or two for him.

That’s the kind of life lesson that is just as valuable as any box I could send in the other direction.

Back in the Saddle

2009-08-03T13:42:00.004-04:00

Yes, you read it right: as Tom Sietsema reported in The Washington Post on Wednesday, David Guas and his would be partners in Bayou Bakery have “parted ways,” and so the hotly anticipated southern bakery/coffee house is on hold – for a moment.

Guas is right back in the saddle, looking for another vintage space in a lively neighborhood to replace the downtown Clarendon venue where he’d been planning to set up shop. All the public support and media attention focused on his southern themed bakery, especially after the disappointing word got out, redoubled his determination to make Bayou Bakery a reality.

Once established, it will be a warm and welcoming place you’ll wonder what you ever did without, where the pages of Guas’ forthcoming cookbook, Damgoodsweet, comes to life for friends and neighbors in the Washington area. With its progressive coffee program, hot pressed French bread sandwiches, creamy sno-balls, southern pies, cakes, puddings, and Guas’ signature hot beignets, Bayou Bakery will be well worth the wait.

So stay tuned: the proof is in the pudding – and the suspense only sweetens it.

Decadence and Elegance

2009-07-31T16:50:00.003-04:00

Decadence and Elegance-these two words are customarily used to characterize New Orleans. Opposing as they are, they provide a balance to the ambiance with in the heart of the CrescentCity. After 10 great years of representing one of the most culturally rich boutique hotels in New Orleans that provided a look into the rituals and heritage of Louisiana and strong underlying current of decadence, International House will no longer be a client of simoneink, LLC. It was a wonderful journey and I sincerely loved every moment I could share with friends and family this unique experience. Please see one of the final and valued inclusions I was able to provide for owner, Sean Cummings of International House, and in turn, the city of New Orleans. New York Times / National Geographic Traveler

I am taking this opportunity to start where I began with my career 21 years ago in New Orleans, by representing a hotel with a genuine touch of elegance. I am delighted to announce that I will be representing The Soniat House, in the residential area of the French Quarter, beginning September 1, 2009. The hotel was developed 20 years ago by combining three historic Creole cottages and decorating them with period antiques. Glorious details – spiral staircase, balconies and patios are original to the 1830s establishment. Courtyards are lush with sweet olive, magnolia, and ginger. Your experience is as if you are a resident with all the necessary amenities of a small luxury hotel. Thank you for your continued support and looking forward to welcoming you to New Orleans by visiting The Soniat House once again or for the first time. And dining at one of chef John Besh’s restaurants anchored in the business district or near his hometown, will truly complete your next trip to the City that care did not forget… these past three years!

Bergamo or Bust!

2009-07-30T16:31:00.002-04:00

So with all the buzz about John Besh’s newest venture in reviving New Orleans’ culinary heritage, you may be wondering “what possible claim can a hometown boy from Slidell, Louisiana have on la cucina rustica??” And that’s a fair question. His classical culinary education, his German roots, and his intensive training in Bavaria and Provence – not to mention his own fond memories of the old Franco-German brasseries that used to anchor many New Orleans’ neighborhoods – gave him all the authority necessary to create Lüke, his most recent revival of a local staple. But Italian? I asked him point-blank.

JB: “I’ve always loved Italian food. But what’s important to me is not that it’s my personal heritage, but that it belongs to the city and needs to be celebrated as such. I want to raise the profile of Italian food here. There’s so much our Italian immigrants have brought to New Orleans – remember, the French Quarter was also rightly known as ‘Little Italy’ – and there ought to be a restaurant that reflects that contribution, that culture.”

SR: Got it. But how exactly did you become an instant expert in all things Italian?

JB: I didn’t -- I created one! His name is Alon. No, but seriously, Alon Shaya has worked with me for years – he was Chef de Cuisine at Besh Steak – and we’ve been kicking this idea around for about as long as we’ve known each other. Italian food has always been his first love. His family emigrated here from Israel when he was little, and the first restaurants he worked in as a kid in Philadelphia were Italian. His dream has always been to get back to that cuisine. And look at a map – Israel is just across the Mediterranean from Italy, right? Maybe it’s not such a stretch. When the moment was right, I finally said to him, “Alon, if we’re going to do this, you’re going to go to Italy and learn it. Learn it all. Immerse yourself in the culture, the whole culture of food that exists there beyond the world of Michelin stars.” And then I gave him a plane ticket, pocket money, and the name of a friend of a friend with a restaurant in a little town outside Bergamo. He was a great sport, considering he didn’t speak Italian and the chef he teamed up with didn’t actually allow him to touch the food. Turns out you can learn an awful lot just washing dishes for three months. And peeling shrimp.

Yikes! Stay tuned for the adventures of Alon in Italy, or, how he went from peeling shrimp to mastering rustic Italian cuisine…

Pressed is Best

2009-07-22T17:35:00.004-04:00

David Guas may be a pastry chef par excellence, but the new Bayou Bakery, sister property to Liberty Tavern in Clarendon, will be featuring savories that give the sweets a run for their money.

Being a native of New Orleans of Cuban descent, he has cleverly – and deliciously – combined two sandwiches of his culinary heritage, the classic hot-pressed Cubano and the popular Po’Boy, to create a flavorful, hot-pressed French bread sandwich. With crusty baguettes Guas is making in-house as a foundation, and his own bread & butter pickles as the perfect piquant optional accompaniment, you’ll want to enjoy every last morsel of these satisfying sandwiches -- even as they commandeer your ‘room for dessert.’

Starting out, Guas has developed four distinct varieties. The “French-u-letta” is his spin on the beloved New Orleans Muffuletta, originated at Central Grocery over 100 years ago: ham, salami, and provolone, with the all-important house-made olive dressing (and a good kick of garlic) hot-pressed in that authentic New Orleans French bread. “Veg Head” is a true vegetarian feast of grilled Portobello mushrooms, asparagus, red onions, and smoked gouda. The “Spicy Pilgrim” doffs its tall black hat to pre-Colonial history with plenty of house-blackened turkey. And “My Miami” features roasted pork loin, thinly sliced French style ham, Swiss cheese, dill pickles, and yellow mustard.

Hand-crafted-to-order and hot-off-the-press, these sandwiches redefine the lunchtime favorite. Though there is that golden rule at Bayou Bakery — you don’t skip dessert!

Pucker Up

2009-07-15T16:15:00.004-04:00

Most of us will have to wait ‘til later this summer to experience John Besh’s celebration of rustic Italian cooking, when Domenica opens in New Orleans’ Roosevelt Hotel.

But those lucky listeners who caught the raucous live radio broadcast on Friday, July 10 with culinary personality, Kevin Jenkins, one of the Atlanta-based duo team also known as “Chef and the Fat Man,” got a delectable sneak preview. And things got even livelier with the special guest appearance of Danny DeVito, lending the enterprise his own particular style of Italian American heritage.

Broadcasting from the Carousel Piano Bar at the legendary Hotel Monteleone, the guys had a high time creating Torta Fritta stuffed with Mortadella and Ricotta Cavatelli with Local San Marzano Tomatoes and a last minute diversion from John Besh celebrating one of his favorite dishes- Shrimp and Grits for the listening public and a spirited audience – including DeVito’s wife, actress Rhea Perlman, who was devotedly snapping away with her camera…

…with good reason! DeVito was in town promoting his new brand of limoncello at New Orleans’ annual Tales of the Cocktails event. During the demo at the Carousel Piano Bar, the diminutive entrepreneur was occasionally engulfed in clouds of liquid nitrogen as he assisted Domenica’s Executive Chef/Partner Alon Shaya in creating Danny DeVito’s Limoncello Sorbetto.

“Oh, are my hands cold!” he quipped with biting restraint. “Just let us know when you can’t feel them anymore,” was Shaya’s sympathetic response, adding “Don’t anyone try this at home!”

DeVito was to only be present for a 15 minutes to meet and great, but ended up staying for the duration of the show [ a full hour]. So who really “Tuned In” to what New Orleans is all about—The Limoncello Man and his ever so funny wife and camera maven who let those good times roll!

A little touch of ‘Sanford & Son’ in David Guas

2009-07-14T16:47:00.002-04:00

When David Guas saw a certain coffee table at Restoration Hardware, he knew its industrial chic surface would be the perfect spot for his customers to rest their big ol’ cereal-bowl shaped ceramic coffee cups. Then he saw the price tag. Conscious of the demands on his budget as the opening of Bayou Bakery looms in the coming weeks, and never one to dwell on disappointment, he moved right along tackling the rest of the items on his mile-long to-do list …. Not long after, combing through a giant salvage yard out in the Virginia countryside he’d targeted for possible vintage accessories to lend down-home character to the bakery’s interior, something caught his eye: it was an old, low, factory cart on four big heavy-duty casters – just the same base as that fancy table he’d seen. The proprietor said it was a feed scale cart. He’d let it go for $10. Guas popped the rotten wood top off and got it home to his workshop in a pickup truck. Fixed up with a lot of elbow grease, steel wool, and a nice new top fashioned from some massive old beams that came out of the bakery’s ceiling to make space for the new mezzanine level, its industrial chic surface… will become the perfect spot for gathering.

Ingenuity, creativity, craftsmanship and afterschool TV breaks as a child seems to pay off!

Honoring the Legacy of Italian Groceries, Delis, and Hard Working Home Cooks in New Orleans

2009-07-07T18:06:00.008-04:00

Continued...

Central Grocery, home of the beloved Muffuletta, opened in the French Quarter in 1906 and is still going strong today – a cheerful old-fashioned shop piled high with imported goods, its deli counter more often than not crowded with salivating patrons anticipating their piled-high sandwiches. Sal Lupo, its founder, invented the sandwich back in the day, topping Italian cold cuts and cheeses on a crusty bun with his highly seasoned olive salad.

Generations of New Orleanians have made Brocato’s their go-to place for sweets. It was one of the city’s first sit-down ice cream parlors, and though it’s no longer on Ursuline Street in the ‘Quarter’ where it was also established in 1905 (good year for historic Italian food icons!) – the family has since moved it mid-city – the confectionary emporium run by Angelo Brocato’s descendants still serves the best ice cream, candy, cookies, and pastries in town: just ask any nostalgic native.

Progresso, of canned soup and fine Italian products fame, was established in –you guessed it! – 1905, in – you guessed it! – New Orleans – by Vincent Taormina. His whole family was soon involved in importing foods from their native Sicily to their adopted country for all to enjoy.

Mother’s Restaurant, another New Orleans institution, was not established between 1905-1906, but rather in 1938 – oh well, no matter: locals and tourists alike flock to Poydras Street for Chef Jerry Amato’s comfort food. He and his brother, who co-own the restaurant, are descendants of Sicilian immigrants.

2009: Chef John Besh opens Domenica, a restaurant that celebrates the deep and delicious Italian heritage of New Orleans, in particular its home cooking, imported delicacies and lovingly cured pork products. Artisanal house-made pastas and pizzas and cheeses, heaping platters of slow-braised meats, succulent seafood, piquant antipasti and homey Italian dolci -- the makings of memorable meals to share with a crowd or savor to yourself. Mangia!

The Coffee: Grounds for Perfection

2009-07-01T09:58:00.006-04:00

Though they’ve gutted the interior and re-written the menu, the partners of the new Bayou Bakery are maintaining the property’s tradition of barista-quality coffee, which dovetails perfectly with its Louisiana concept and roots –Mid May saw the team diving into the project full "steam" ahead. The more Guas learned about what they were taking over – a place owned by a formidable barista serving really good coffee – the more the concept evolved into a place whose coffee program would be as important as its food. Not what they first intended – but an even more exciting challenge. It’s a natural fit. It’s true that Guas may be biased – he believes Louisiana is better at everything when it comes to food. But Louisiana does boast a deep coffee history. New Orleans is a big coffee town. There’s a reason the Café du Monde is world-famous – and it only serves coffee and beignets. Guas’ father is from Cuba, another place where they take their coffee very seriously. He used to go to Miami as a kid to visit relatives, and still remembers the old men sidled up to bars doing shots of espresso with sweet steamed milk - cortaditos. At a time when most of the rest of the country was drinking freeze-dried coffee, his parents and their fellow New Orleanians were buying whole bean coffee, Community or 8 O’Clock, and grinding it at the A&P. And his father and grandfather brewed it on an open flame on the stove.

Wines and Vegetables— The Dos Brisas Way!

2009-06-26T17:47:00.008-04:00

As usual I went for a four mile morning run and got ready for Inn owner, Doug Bosch, to scoop me up and hit the highway for The Inn at Dos Brisas. I summoned some of the very best in the Houston food world to join me for lunch and dinner. For me, it was a continuous day of eating. I ended with cheese at lunch only to begin a cheese class and eat more house-made fromage for dinner. The lunch group, infamous Chowhounds all, led by the passionate food voice of Jenny Wang came to break bread and taste what all the buzz is about at Dos Brisas: Chef Jason Robinson, that is!

At dinner the select few who took to the road to Washington, Texas for a culinary excursion included longtime friend John Demers, who has the most educated palate and is a food historian, as well as my friend from the past who is as genuine as they come, Syd Kearney. New found foodie friend, Brad Meyer drove an hour and a half, which was most impressive. He made a great addition to our dinner clan. It went somewhat like this: the group perused the extensive gardens: four acres of vegetables, herbs and what is left of the fruit bearing trees. The heat was sweltering, but the passion of knowing what was in the certified organic gardens overruled. Back at the ranch a four-course tasting kicked off with about 10 varieties of miniature-size heirloom tomatoes, then delicate little risotto balls infused with corn and basil. A protein did make its way into the meal, but even day boat halibut could not distract us from the Broadway show of vegetables that had been harvested in the kitchen gardens not an hour before. This entrée let all the elements shine: the cucumber water balanced the firm salt-crusted fish and a sideshow of cubed rhubarb and cucumbers added the perfect balance in flavor. The course’s co-star (and partner in crime) was an accompanying beverage: not wine, but a cucumber cocktail: Hendrick’s small-batch gin and cucumber juice that defined the word “cocktail.” It was revolutionary! It tasted like a really good dose of bread and butter pickles. The group all agreed on the flavor analysis—amazing! We swooned over the vegetable tian wrapped in whisper-light strips of summer squash too. Then we really everyone almost licked the plate when the sweet eggplant beignets with eggplant ice cream came to the table. The garnish of baby eggplant sliced paper-thin with a touch of caramelized sugar had me yearning for more.

At dinner, I had my eye on one thing and I pulled in John to follow my lead. A surprise move from the most increasingly knowledgeable sommeliers I have met: Christopher Bates, who also plays a big role at The Inn at Dos Brisas, that of GM. It was the piece de resistance! He selected for the last course a bottle of Pétrus, a ’94. I said, “Oh we want it and we want it now.” It was divine!

Now for the sublime was a fast one pulled on us from the Inn’s owners Doug and Jennifer Bosch. They are so wonderful, charming, and fun. John Demers and I were the last ones left and we were treated with congenial hospitality. Not like rotten eggs! Oh John was glad he decided to sleep in one of the Inn’s four casitas, because liquid gold was the last pour of the night. Doug said, “Let’s go to the cellar and pick out one more bottle of wine.” I joked but truthfully, and not kidding, “I could go for another Pétrus.” He said that he would do better than that! He pulled from the lower level of the wine rack a bottle and I thought, “Oh it’s at the bottom, what could that be?” I gulped when I saw the label. It was a fine Bordeaux, Chateau Latour 1982 Pauillac. Robert Parker made a name for himself saying this was the best wine of all time, and confirming 1982 was an incredible year. Parker gave it a score of 100. I swished water around my mouth to clean my taste buds and let enter one of the finest wines of its time. For someone like me, knowledgeable about wine and who could share that moment with others who understand the complexity and purity of this particular vintage, it was heaven. Doug surely ended the evening in the most gracious way. Doug is truly a generous man at heart and does things in a big way—the Texas way!

On the road again. Texas Bound.

2009-06-26T17:36:00.004-04:00

Usually when my friends and family get my voicemail or out of office message, they immediately assume I’m back home, in New Orleans that is! This week, they guessed wrong. Yes, I went south but this time west. Houston, Texas is somewhat like home with so many of my closest and dearest pals from New Orleans live there now. Right off the plane, my first call was to my childhood friend from age 4, Elisabeth Bickham (aka Lillabet). I told her I was in and coming over. Then I touched base with Charles Stern, another friend but more from the high school days. Over drinks at Lillabet’s house in River Oaks, we joined by one of my dearest work buddies now good friend, Vance Muse, who is an incredible writer, art aficionado and public relations exec for the Menil Collection. Vance popped over for a splash of bubbly (which he kindly snuck in) bearing gifts from the treasure chest at the Menil Gift Shop. And the Criners, were Vance’s arm candy, an elegant couple I have met several times in New Orleans and was so happy to get to know more this past evening. Wild that they live right behind Lillabet; perhaps it was really meant to be? We were sorry when the sunset ended and the warm night split our party up.

Dinner for Charles, Lillabet and I was more about catching up than cuisine. That is so hard for me to swallow as I was hoping to try Reef or The New York Times-featured hotspot for organs, Feast No luck! We went to a French bistro, that will remain nameless, as I am not about giving negative digs to restaurants trying to make it in this economy, but I have to mention that warm wine by the glass made me cringe. The bread and “butta” were great, but what really mattered tonight is being with each other.

Chef with a Mission

2009-06-25T12:11:00.002-04:00

John Besh is a chef with a mission.

He has set out to restore the culinary heritage of New Orleans, not only by his daily support of local farmers, fishers, and artisan producers, but also in reviving fading or endangered cultural traditions of the city. In his research for his latest venture, Domenica, which opens July 1st in the Roosevelt Hotel, he came across a book called Italians in New Orleans by Joseph Maselli and Dominic Candeloro (Arcadia Publishing 2004.) We went through it together recently.

Now, maybe because my father was French and I was a child of the Sacré Coeur from a tender age (nuns and all!) France was my “ethnic” focus for the city. John’s roots are German. So although we’d grown up there, the length and depth of the Italian legacy in our city took us both by surprise.

Who knew that Tonti Street was named for Enrico de Tonti, who first explored the area in the 17th century with LaSalle, and stayed on to settle the colony? Almost since then, it seems, there’s been a well established Italian presence in New Orleans. A number of Italian states opened consulates there as early as the 1830s. Early prominent Italians included artists, musicians, soldiers, church leaders, physicians, the man known as “Father of the Rice Industry,” and, notably, grocery, wine, and liquor importers.

All-Italian battalions from New Orleans served in the Civil War. After the war, according to the book, the development of direct trade between New Orleans and Sicily in goods such as citrus fruits, figs, olives, and seafood significantly boosted the economic power of the city’s Italian immigrants – and their numbers were about to swell --

Following the Civil War, mass migration of Sicilian peasants filled demand for labor on sugar plantations, on the docks, and in the food industry. Before long, as much as 80% of the French Quarter was actually populated by Italians – and became known as “Little Italy” or “Little Palermo.” Many of the immigrants prospered as fruit and vegetable vendors. According to U.S. Census estimates, between 1850-1970 there were more Italians in New Orleans than in any other American city – again, who knew?? “For a good long time,” points out John, “our world-famous ‘French’ Market consisted primarily of Italian merchants!”

Stay tuned for more on how John will be honoring the legacy of Italian groceries, delis, and hard-working home cooks at Domenica in his own creative and contemporary way --

Bake, Rattle, and Roll

2009-06-23T10:31:00.003-04:00

So in one of those fateful ‘what if’ moments, David Guas got an intriguing phone call the day before he was to sign a 10-year lease on a little property he planned to turn in to his ‘Bayou Bakery.’ It wouldn’t be all he had hoped and dreamed, but in this economy, it would be a good start. Then a call came from out of the blue, from Stephen Fedorchak and Brian Normile, owners of Clarendon’s popular Liberty Tavern. They summoned David for an impromtu meeting. They had acquired the property across the street, a well-regarded ‘grunge’ coffee house, and were looking for a partner with a compelling concept. They found it in David Guas, and the rest, as they say, is history. This is what those life savings were saved for!

Bayou Bakery opens in August. “It’ll be a homey Southern café – deep Southern – a community house where you come as you are, come with the kids, come and not be judged.”

Chef John Besh

2009-06-16T09:45:00.007-04:00

Here in the Southern Comfort column, we keep up with news and notes from the New Orleans restaurants of Chef John Besh. His is now a household name, what with the honors and awards, appearances on Today and participation on Top Chef. But when you come right down to it, John is a hometown boy from Slidell, Louisiana – I’ve known him since I don’t know when. A top chef, for sure, but also an energetic entrepreneur who has made it his mission to revive the culinary heritage of his city -- my hometown -- many aspects of which he has seen slipping away over the decades or just getting lost behind the big ‘gumbo’ of tourist attractions.

Just as John’s most recent restaurant, Lüke, represents his dream of bringing back the New Orleans institution of the Franco-German brasserie, his next venture, Domenica, is a tribute to the Italian immigrant tradition whose food is so much a part of the great melting pot of New Orleans cuisine.

Domenica is set to open in New Orleans’ historic downtown Roosevelt Hotel late this summer with Chef Alon Shaya in partnership and in the kitchen. I sat down with John to get the details of how it all came about. He showed me a book he’d used as a reference called Italians in New Orleans by Joseph Maselli and Dominic Candeloro (Arcadia Publishing 2004.) We looked through the old black-and-white pictures together and marveled at all the Italian institutions and establishments that have helped define New Orleans.

JB: Look at all these grocery storefronts – every single one is an Italian shop. The biggest wave of immigrants came from Sicily in the 1880s, and they set up doing what they knew, much as the Germans came over as bakers and brewers. Central Grocery is where the muffuletta originated – where would this town be without it?

SR: I prefer the ones at Napoleon House. They’re warmed up.

JB: Well, you’re entitled. But even with a name like Napoleon, it’s Italian, too.

SR: Speaking of names, Domenica means “Sunday” in Italian, right? What’s the significance?

JB: We want to give people the relaxed sense of occasion that defines traditional Italian Sunday suppers, where the dishes have been lovingly prepared over the course of hours and even days – using techniques and rituals that are centuries-old, and made it here to the New World as precious wisdom. The whole family is involved, that’s a given, and the meal may well include neighbors and the larger community. That’s why at Domenica we’ll have a number of long central refectory tables for communal eating, as well as private tables.

SR: Sounds fun -- a good way to meet people. Back to the muffuletta – will you have one on the menu?

JB: We’ll certainly be equipped to: Alon has been curing his own highly specialized Italian pork products for months now, in the smoke house out at La Provence. He spent a good part of last year in Italy learning the art of making salume – and before that at the University of Iowa, learning the science.

Stay tuned in the coming weeks for details of Domenica’s menu, interior, roots in the New Orleans community, and adventures of Alon in Italy. This is also where we’ll be chatting about John’s other restaurants: August, Besh Steak, La Provence, and Lüke. Ciao for now!

Boss Man at 34

2009-06-15T18:00:00.003-04:00

Who hasn’t dreamt of being his own boss? The freedom to build his own sky’s-the-limit success?

For David Guas, who left his native New Orleans over ten years ago to be opening pastry chef for the new DC Coast restaurant, and stayed on to lead the pastry kitchens of its three subsequent sister restaurants, the dream got much more personal after Hurricane Katrina destroyed his childhood home.

“We were opening a new restaurant that week – there was no question of going down to help my parents; they came up, instead, with just the clothes on their backs, which is a story for another time. But it was a real struggle for me, not being able to help out physically. An urge to do something started to resonate, a real need to fill the void that had been my home, and reconnect with my birthright, so to speak.”

When Guas left his corporate domain two years later to start his consulting business, he named it damgoodsweet, a loving nod to a historically irreverent town. In New Orleans and across southern Louisiana when something is really good, it is “damn good!” So to be G-rated for his under-age fans and their parents, the name was gently adjusted to damgoodsweet.

Then came his first cookbook – of the same name, subtitled Desserts to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth New Orleans Style (Taunton Press, Fall 2009). The great buzz of anticipation surrounding the project seemed to magnify the work involved. “We were on a pretty tight deadline, and I just dove headlong back into the food I’d grown up with. I was constantly on the phone with my parents, my sister, my Aunt Boo – the world’s best cook (another story for another time) – and the memories were all just tugging at my heartstrings. I wanted a place of my own to bring it all back to life, where my life is now. I love DC." Guas' boys are almost 5 and 7 and thriving in school. It wasn’t about deciding not to move back; it had become a matter of sharing ‘back home’ with his here-and-now.

Blah Blah Blah

2009-06-11T09:47:00.006-04:00

Here in the cheerful offices of simoneink, there’s an awful lot of news and information about the hospitality industry flying around, much of which makes its way into press releases, news letters, or carefully targeted direct pitches. And then there’s the rest. Mostly tidbits, some of it may be of interest to some of you, some not at all – which is why I don’t clog my communication with it.

From here on, however, just so it’s documented and available, all those tidbits are going into my new blog: Blah Blah Blah. It’ll be a place for all the chatter and picayune details that don’t make it into releases, or subjects that may be on the fringes of the industry.

Half of Blah Blah Blah will be called Etc., a column covering the hospitality industry in general. The other half will be called Chicken Scratch, dedicated to specific trends and dishes.

So check in every now and then to catch the thoughts and experiences of this red-headed gal on the move as I travel around the country from South to North and East to West keeping up with my oh-so-select clients – and keeping ahead of everything else!

Keep in mind, there will also be a fun mix of personal anecdotes from the trials and tribulations of being a working mom and traveling parent.